Kalkgasse

The strata montana, or Bergstrasse, (literally, mountain road) is an old Roman trade route parallel to the Rhine. It skirts the foothills of the Odenwald (Oden Forest) between Darmstadt and Wiesloch, south of Heidelberg, for some 70 km (45 miles). The hilly vineyards lining the route belong to both the Hessische Bergstrasse (northern stretch) and Baden (southern portion) wine-growing regions. 

This month’s famous site, Kalkgasse (literally, chalk alley), is located in Bensheim/HB. Its name derives both from its stony, weathered granite and chalky soils – the topsoil is a mere 12-20 inches deep – as well as the deep hollows that developed through erosion over many years. In fact, limestone and sandstone were quarried here until well into the 19th century; today, one sandstone quarry remains as a biotope that provides a haven for birds and small animals. The 47-ha (116-acre) site is sloping to steep, faces south, and is protected from cold, northerly and easterly winds by the forest – ideal conditions for an early start to the growing season.The average age of the vines is 18-19 years, i.e. they are in their prime, and the predominant variety is Riesling (80–85%), with an increasing share of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) – often vinified as a rosé wine.

Lorsch Abbey ruins, with its remarkable, intact Carolingian Torhalle (entry gate). A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991.

Just to the west of the Bergstrasse (midway between Bensheim and Heppenheim) are the remains of Lorsch Abbey, a former Benedictine monastery that was elevated to imperial status by Charlemagne. The abbey evolved into a powerful cultural and political center in the Middle Ages, and owned vast tracts of land between the North Sea and the Alps, including many vineyards. In the second half of the 12th century, it recorded its rights and possessions in a codex (Codex Laureshamensis) that reproduced property transfers and deeds of gift from as long ago as the 8th century – thus providing the first documented mention of the names of many wine villages and vineyard sites not only in the immediate vicinity, but also at considerable distances away.

Kirchberghäuschen, a tribute to Bensheim’s “house vineyard,” Kirchberg, which borders on the Kalkgasse site. The building of this little temple (with Ionic columns) overlooking the vineyard began in 1846, paid for by donations from the citizens of Bensheim. It was was officially “opened” in 1857, with a huge festival. As of 1906, food and beverage have been offered. To get there, take the vineyard hiking trail that begins near the Stadtpark (city park) and proceeds along Kalkgasse. The walk frorm Bensheim proper takes less than 20 minutes. Kirchberghäusen is a popular destination for anyone seeking a great view and/or a place to have a bite to eat (simple fare/regional specialties, such as Kochkäse [cheese]), with local wine, cider or beer. Closed Jan–mid-Feb. Nov. and Dec., weekends only, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Otherwise, open daily, except Monday, from 11 a..m. – whenever the flag is flying!

Hiking Enthusiasts: Bergstrasse-Odenwald Nature Park has more than 700 km (420 miles) of marked trails.

Scenic excursions through the Odenwald: travel on the Siegfriedstrasse (B-460) or the Nibelungenstrasse (B-47) to Michelstadt to see the picturesque market square and town hall (1484); Steinbach is home to the Carolingian Einhardsbasilika (800), named after Charlemagne’s biographer); and Erbach, with its museum of ivory carving.

Wine festivals take place in Bensheim (the first third of September, with a parade) and in Heppenheim (late June/early July) every year. May 1st is the annual “Weinlagenwanderung” (hike through the vineyards, with tasting stands en route) from Zwingenberg to Heppenheim.