Outstanding Vinotheks Details

Talk to Pfalz natives about their home region, and they'll proudly bring up the old chestnut about this stretch being called "Germany's little Tuscany." There's more than a bit of truth to the moniker. The gentle hills, the mild climate, the cultivation of fruits such as figs and eggplant — it does all remind one of the marvelous region of vacations and Chianti between Florence and Siena. For the past ten years, there's been a bit of architectural homage to Tuscany in Weisenheim am Berg, in the form of Weingut Holz-Weisbrodt's "Weinatrium" vinothek at the edge of the Pfalz forest.

From the first moment that Helga and Willibald Weisbrodt took over the estate in 1972, they also dreamed of having their own restaurant. That dream came true in 1985 with the opening of the "Stammhaus," which serves up a pleasant atmosphere and authentic Pfalz cuisine for both locals and tourists.

20 years later they added another jewel to their collection, the "Weinatrium": a generously proportioned space with 10-meter-high ceilings and large windows that flood the vinothek with light. High-quality materials such as sandstone, oak and cherry wood are used to accentuate the 150-square-meter space. The Weisbrodts were particularly interested in making their space relaxed and straightforward. You can sit at bar tables and stools, or up in the gallery, or on a couch corner, or simply stand in a place of your choosing — preferably with a glass in your hand. It's all good. There's no pressure to order. The guests pour the wine for themselves and serve themselves portions from the antipasti plates and Mediterranean veggies — all very Italian, of course ... Put simply, it's a place to enjoy.

When it comes to the wines, the Weisbrodts tend to prefer modern, lively wines with a fair amount of carbonation, and memorable barrel-aged reds. The proven classics that have been drawing guests back for years include: the Merlot Blanc de Noir (a white Merlot from red grapes) and the Cabernet Franc, which is only rarely bottled as a pure varietal in Germany.

For son Sebastian Weisbrodt, by contrast, it's the "Kellerkind" that's the real affair of the heart. He takes on two or three trainee winemakers per year, who are then allowed to create their own wine. This child of the cellar ("Kellerkind") always involves a certain degree of extravagance. Past entries have included a bone-dry Muskateller and a blend of Riesling, Silvaner and Scheurebe.

Give it a try, and enjoy. Whether in Tuscany or at the Weisbrodts in Weisenheim, life can be wonderfully easy and uncomplicated.